Telmari Uwagi Part 1 – Patterning

The uwagi is one of the most basic pieces of Telmar clothing. Usually a thin uwagi is worn closest to the skin, and a slightly sturdier one is worn on top. The uwagi is worn with an obi, a belt that is wound around the waist once or several times and tied.

Some uwagi are asymmetrical and might be missing a sleeve, or have the sleeve half attached so that your arm would stick out but not go in the sleeve, and the loose sleeve might be worn twisted around the arm. It can have long or short sleeves.

Uwagi with one sleeve

Uwagi with one sleeve

There is no ready made pattern for the uwagi. You are going to draw it out yourself according to your measurements. Just follow the instructions step by step and you’ll be fine.

For these instructions I am using my own measurements as an example.

 

To know how much fabric you should use for the uwagi you need to take three measurements:

  • The length of the uwagi
  • The length of the sleeve
  • The “wraparound” measurement

The uwagi wraps around the body in front, about 1,5 times. Most fabrics are 140-150 cm wide and should be enough. To test this, wrap a measuring tape around your bust, waist or hips, whichever one is the widest, and see if it overlaps comfortably in front. If the fabric of your choice is wide enough you should measure the length of the uwagi plus the length of your sleeve, for me: 65+55cm (I am including seamallowanses, SM).

My desired length is about 60cm and sleeve length 50cm. My widest part is my hips (about 100cm) so a fabric measuring 140-150cm will work well for me. With seam allowances I will need 1,2m fabric. I chose a slightly sturdier cotton.

If the fabric is not wide enough you need to measure twice the length of the uwagi + sleeve length + SM. With my measurements that would be 65 + 65 + 55 = 185 cm (SM included). At the end of the tutorial is a layout of the patterning for this. Otherwise the instructions are almost the same.

How to get the pattern

Note: If you want to be careful and make sure you do not go wrong, do this on paper first. You can use old newspapers taped together to mimic the with and length of your fabric.

1. Fold your fabric in half lengthwise. Make sure the selvedges line up.

The fabdic folded in half.

The fabdic folded in half.

2. Consider the length of your uwagi + 3cm SM measurement A.

3. Take the measurement of your widest part that you checked earlier. Divide it by 4 and add 1cm SM. This is measurement B.

4. Starting from the bottom, mark a line going horizontally across the fabric at the height of A. This is a temporary line so mark it in chalk that can be removed (mine sits at 60cm).

The temporary horixonal line.

The temporary horixonal line.

5. Next measure B from the folded edge along the bottom and make a mark. Also measure from the folded edge along line you just drew and mark. Connect the dots.

Pic3

6. Time for measurement C: Measure around your neck. Divide by 4 and subtract this from B. This is C. My neck is 40cm. Divided by 4 = 10. My B (27cm) minus 10 = 17cm for me. From the top of your vertical line, measure C to each side of your temporary line. Mark and connect.

I named the first point X and the second point Y.

I named the first point X and the second point Y.

7. Divide your quartered neck measurement (see step 6, mine is 10cm) by half. For me that is 5 cm. Measure from the temporary line down the folded edge and mark. Draw a line between this spot and the previous spot you marked (I named this X (also notice the other mark on the temporary line is now called Y)). It should look like this:

Pic5

Congratulations, you now have your back piece! Let’s move on with the front piece:

 

8. Next measurement: Measure from the top of your shoulder to your waist. For me this is 40cm. It should not be longer than your uwagi’s finished length. Name this measurement D. From the temporary line, mark D down along the selvedges. Then connect with mark Y. You now have your front pieces.

Back and front pieces marked!

Back and front pieces marked!

9. Time for sleeve measurements: Your sleeve length + 3cm SM is measurement E. You also need to measure your armhole: Measure around your shoulder and armpit quite loosely. You do not want the sleeve to be too tight. Add 2 cm SM and you have your F measurement.

10. Along the folded edge of the fabric, mark E. If you bought fabric according to the measurements discussed at the beginning of the text this should align with the top edge of the fabric. If you bought more you need to mark another horizontal line here. Measure F along the first horizontal line and also along the top of the fabric and connect. Now you have the sleeves. Notice that when cutting out you need to cut open the folded edge (marked with red dashes).

Sleeve.

Sleeve.

11. Next for the collar: The remaining strip of fabric will be used for the collar. Divide it in half vertically and make the strip rectangular where they meet with the front piece. The grey striped triangles are the pieces you will have left over once you have cut everything out. My strips ended up being about 10cm wide so my finished collar will be around 4 cm wide.

The whole pattern layout.

The whole pattern layout.

12. Pin along all the marked lines and cut out the pieces.

 

For a fabric not wide enough to wrap 1,5 times around you, use this pattern layout:

Pic9

You will need to use two temporary lines, both the height of A. The red dashes mark where you need to cut open the folded edge.

 

That is part one done. Part two of this tutorial can be found here.

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